When we arrived in Mumbai, we had no definite plans of where we would be going next in India. Steven is a Tibetan Buddhist and was meeting a German friend of his, Anna, in Kathmandu Nepal in a few more days. He invited us along. We were already thinking about going to Nepal after India so we decided to go earlier with him and return to India after. We decided to spend our next few days in India in Bodhgaya before heading to Nepal. There are four very important and auspicious holy places for Buddhists in the world. Three of these are in India and one is in Lumbini in Nepal, where the Buddha was born. Sarnath, near Varanasi in India is where the Buddha gave his first teachings to his first five disciples, ***** is where the Buddha died. Bodhgaya, our next destination, is where the Buddha sat underneath the famous Bodhi tree and He attained enlightenment.
Bodhgaya is in the poorest province in India, Brihar. Which we knew would create quite a contrast coming from the richest one. Our train left at around 8 in the evening and we arrived in Bodhgaya some 30 hours later. We weren’t sure what to expect in terms of the train ride. We had those visions in our heads of hot, unsanitary, overcrowded trains with people hanging out of the barred glassless windows. Well as it turns out that is really what it’s like! Luckily there are different classes available. We travelled 2 AC which is second class sleeper coaches with air conditioned and 4 beds (2 bunk beds) per room (with a curtain for a door). First class doesn’t exist… ok?! And 3rd class is also air conditioned sleeper coaches with 6 beds – sounds a bit closterphobish to us! We found the train to be clean. They serve Chai (Indian Tea) and you hear them coming down the aisle chanting ‘chai, chai, chai…’. Every once in a while they come around with special chai which must have been made with cream rather than milk as it was very much like having dessert! Mmm! Breakfast, lunch and dinner were also offered and surprisingly tasty, pretty good for train food.
In our four-bed coach we had two Indian roommates for the length of the journey, Raj from North India and Vini from South India, who do audits for the Government of India. They spend six to seven months on the road away from their young families travelling all over India every year. They would certainly like to see their families more but they are grateful to have good jobs that allow them to support their families… something many Indians don’t have and dream of having.
From the second we met them we hit it off and had some great chats. They have great pride in their country and their people and loved sharing about their caste systems, arranged marriages, foods, customs, and traditions. We told them about Canada and we enjoyed some great conversations on a number of topics such as on the economy, education and just life in general. Interestingly we share lots of the same views. Ricky taught Raj a dice game that we play every once in a while which they then played and both enjoyed thoroughly. Chatting with Raj and Vinni was so refreshing. They are two very genuine, personable and down to earth gentlemen. It is people like Raj and Vinni whom we meet along the way that we will not forget and who add so much to our travelling experience. We are keeping in contact with them which is quite special.
We were due to arrive in Gaya at 3:45 a.m. from where we would hire an autoricksaw to take us to our Guesthouse in Bodhgaya. Being in the poorest province of India, the crime rate is quite high in Bodghaya. Raj and Vini, who were continuing on to Kalcutta advised us not to leave the train station until sunrise and once in Bodyaha not to be out before dawn or after dusk. This was a bit disconcerting but we just took it as a reminder to be careful. What we’ve learned during our year of travel is that the biggest precaution you can take is to trust you are safe and walk and present yourself with confidence. Of course, travelling as a backpacker also deters thieves as they assume you have nothing of value which has worked out great.
Nothing could have prepared us for the scene in the Gaya train station. There were literally hundreds of homeless people of all ages sleeping on the floor all throughout the station. It was extremely hot and there was a very foul smell. There was no place to wait for sunrise. We felt uncomfortable in this environment and decided to go outside to get the autorickshaw to our guesthouse. This turned out to be quite easy and a lot more endurable than staying in the train station so it seemed…. it was approximately a 30-minute ride to the guesthouse.
The large truck traffic on the roads was very heavy. As in other Asian countries, there is a hierarchy on the roads and the trucks are king. They would drive up to the bumper of our little autorickshaw and honk their big horns to try and force our driver to pull over to let them by, but our driver was on an ego trip himself. He was too busy trying to pass the trucks in front of him who would swerve into the other lane to prevent him from doing so. Then a couple of trucks we met actually swerved towards our lane to force us to the shoulder. I guess these trucks want everyone to know they are the King of the road.
Once the truck traffic finally died down, we found ourselves on the road out in the middle of nowhere in complete black darkness except for the small dim headlight of our rickshaw. Suddenly, the driver pulls over, shuts off the autorikshaw and the headlight….YIKES! I think all our hearts stopped beating for a moment and we thought we were doomed. We then noticed that the driver turned his head towards us and closed high eyes and murmured something to himself. After a few minutes, he started up the rickshaw and turned on the headlight and off we went into the darkness. That is when our hearts finally started beating again! One of us had noticed some kind of smallish animal (black cat) crossing the road in front of us just before he stopped. We assume that the reason for the sudden stop was a superstitious one and he murmured some kind of prayer to ward off any bad luck or something.
After trying to take us to a different guesthouse (to get a commission no doubt which is a very popular scam here in Asia), our driver finally took us to the guesthouse Steven had booked in advance for us which was also a Tibetan Buddhist monastery.
After a few hours sleep, we ventured out into the village. WOW! We could not believe our eyes. We were seeing and experiencing something we had never experienced before. The scene was totally foreign to us.
It’s something we never taught we would experience in real life. There were literally thousands of pilgrims from all over India who filled the main street which leads to the famous Mahabodhi Temple.
Most of the pilgrims were in large groups walking in a single file lead by a leader. It was obvious that many of them were extremely poor. Some people had this look of hopelessness which made us wonder if they were there in desperation praying for a better life. Most men had shaved heads with one longer lock of hair left near the top of their head in the back.
We hardly saw any other foreigners around which really made it a surreal experience. We could not help but look at them in astonishment and they couldn’t help but do the same with us. It felt like we were from two different worlds with whom we have so little in common even to talk about and a language barrier on top of that. This main street was lined with numerous street vendors who seemed to all be selling the same nick nacks.
We found it extremely hot and dusty in Bodhgaya which didn’t entice us to do very much other than visit and spend some time at the main temple.
The Mahabodhi Temple, which is World Heritage-listed, was built in the 6th century AD to mark the spot where the Bhudda attained enlightenment and formulated his philosophy of life under the famous Bodhi Tree.
The main temple in the complex is a huge 50-meter stone-carved pyramid with endless carvings all around. It is directly next to the actual Bhodi Tree which is encircled by a knee-high stone wall and fence.
The temple complex itself is a maze of paths, gardens, shrines, votive stupas, and a beautiful green meditation park. South of the complex is Muchalinda Lake which has a cobra statue in the middle which represents the cobra that is said to have protected the Buddha from a storm while he was meditating in this spot six weeks after his enlightenment.
Walking around in this complex was the most serene experience. It was difficult to take everything in. We had to stop and sit to soak in the ambience. We watched every group of pilgrims do exactly the same thing as they were lead by their leader.
They started by sitting by the lake in a group as they listened to their group leader lecture, then they began to prepare this little balls of what looked like dough and place them on green leaves. They continued to move their way around the main temple as they worked at preparing these balls and listened to their leader, usually a young man shouting and having them shout some responses back… oh! to have been able to speak the language and know what they were saying.
We couldn’t help but notice that almost seemed like they were just going through the motions without real deep meaning or even knowing why. There were several Tibetan Buddhists walking the grounds in their burgundy robes. Many of which did endless numbers of prostrations for hours in a designated area with their robes soaked in sweat.
This temple complex is indeed a special place. We were taken back by the strong energy there, which felt great during the meditations we enjoyed there both around the main temple and in the meditation park, and it was electric at night as the temple was all lit up changing from purple, to yellow, to red.
We ate at the same hotel restaurant down the road where we got to know some of the staff who started doing little extra fun things for us by our fourth day there such as creating shapes with our food!
On our last day we visited a few of the monasteries and temples which several international communities have built in the village and where pilgrims from around the world go to study and meditate. We visited the one from Thailand, Tibet, and Japan. We also paid a visit to the Great Buddha Statue which towers 25 metres high and is quite striking. This statue was unveiled by the Dalai Lama in 1989. It is said that part of this statue is hollow and contains approximately 20,000 bronze Buddhas.
After four days in Bodhgaya, we were than ready to make our way to Kathmandu in Nepal.
When we left PEI in January, we had a general idea of which countries we wanted to visit during our year. At that time, India was only a maybe. Deep down we both (ok… especially me as Ricky didn’t seem as bothered by this as I…) knew why it was just a maybe. Anyone who knows anything about India will know that it poses some extra challenges compared to travelling to other Asian countries. The picture many of us who have never been to India have in our minds, is of this heavily populated country of one billion people, with swarms of people piled onto a train or bus, unsanitary conditions, the presence of many different illnesses such as Malaria and Cholera, staggering levels of poverty, government corruption, disrespect for women, and so on. These conditions are usually the focus of the media such as the movie “Slum Dog Millionaire”, and the book “White Tiger”, and of course the fear mongering news stations. Although we felt there was great beauty waiting to be discovered in India, we questioned if we were ready for the emotional challenges that must be surmounted to discover the beauty, diversity, and culture of India that lies in and amongst these conditions.
Mumbai is the home of the thousands of famous tiny black cabs with yellow roofs which dot the maze of streets and alleys tooting their horns at absolutely anything or anyone who gets in their way and appears to be slowing them down. Apparently 40,000 of these little black and yellow taxis fill the streets of Mumbai, and we believe it. Most of these non air-conditioned bugs are decorated inside with loud coloured seat covers and religious Hindu objects believed to keep them safe and bring them luck. These objects, at this point, provided us with comfort as we drove through crowds of people in the festive mood celebrating a festival in honour of Ganesha, one of the Hindu Gods, in the streets of Mumbai in the pooring rain in the middle of the night.
On our first day in Mumbai we met Steven in the lobby of our hotel, a fellow Canadian from Calgary, when we came down for a late breakfast. It was also Steven’s first day and he hadn’t eaten yet either so we decided to join forces and head out together on the streets of India for our first time in search of a good place to eat. We had wondered how we’d find the food in India as we hadn’t eaten much Indian food before. As it turned out, Steven lives in a multicultural area of Calgary and is very well versed in many different ethnic foods including Indian, which is his favourite. We asked Steven to order for us and as it would turn out, we dedicated him this duty for every meal we would eat together in India while we continued to travel together for two weeks. Turns out that we love Indian food, too (bonus!) and Mumbai is where it was without question the best!
Early on the three of us hired a car and driver to take us to a few of the famous sites Mumbai has to offer. We started at the Gateway to India, a huge arch facing the Mumbai harbour which was built in 1911 to commemorate the visit of King George V. Completed in 1924, ironically, the British used it some 24 years later to parade off their last British regiments, as India marched towards Independence.
Just opposite the Gateway, one finds the famed Taj Hotel and Towers, built as a blend of Islamic and Renaissance styles, it’s truly a striking building, both from the exterior and even more so once inside. Who knew the Taj Tower was in Mumbai and not in Agra overlooking the Taj Mahal?! 
The hotel consists of both a new and old section. It is the old section which was bombed by terrorist a few years back. This section just reopened for business recently since the attack and the damage on the exterior of the building can still be seen. Oh yeah, we kind of lost Lori Ann for a bit, when we found her, she had just made two new friends, unfortunately, they were the hotel security…he! he!
We then took both a drive and a walk along Marine Drive where we were able to take in nice views of the city landscape.
We visited Ghandi’s residence where he used to stay when he was in Mumbai. The museum is very simple yet inspiring and well done and is located in a lovely green area of the city. We then made our way to Chowpatty Beach a few kilometres from Mumbai. We were all taken back by the amount of filth and garbage on the sand and in the water. A guaranteed sickness for any foreigner who would ever dare to dip in even one toenail! The beach is loaded with vendor stalls selling smoothies and other fruit drinks and snacks. We then had our driver take us to Swati Snacks recommended in the Lonely Planet for its bhelpuri (crisp fried thin rounds of dough mixed with puffed rice, lentils, lemon juice, onions, herbs, and chutney), panki chatni (savory pancake steamed in a banana leaf), and homemade rose-coconut-pineapple ice cream….. mmmmm.
We then made our way back to our hotel through the rush hour traffic. Thank Goodness this car had air-conditioning and doors that locked which provided us with a cool and safe place to take in these sites which we will never forget. We saw street people covered in filth sound asleep under and between parked cars surrounded by garbage, prostitutes on every street corner in the middle of the day, filthy and dirty streets crammed with people, etc. It was heartbreaking to watch. All we could do was see them through eyes of compassion and send them blessings. We wondered what cards were dealt to some of these people in life that had led them to this type of life. When we finally made it back to our hotel a couple of hours later, we were tired and stayed in for the evening. Rajees joined us in our room for a cup of tea and a great chat and then we called it a night.
The next day we were up for an early breakfast before taking a boat at the Gateway to India to the rock-cut temple on Elephanta Island. Thought to have been created between AD 450 -750, this labyrinth of cave-temples carved into the basalt rock of the island represents some of the most impressive temple carving artwork in all of India.
The main Shiva-dedicated temple is an intriguing latticework of courtyards, halls, pillars and shrines, along with the signature 6m three-faced Shiva statue, depicting the God as the Creator, Preserver, and Destroyer. This enormous central bust of Shiva, with its eyes closed in eternal contemplation, may be one of the most serene sights you witness in India. The boat ride back allows for a fantastic view of the Gateway from the water, the way it was meant to be seen.
Once back in Mumbai we enjoyed a nice lunch and then walked Colabar Street market which is a street lined with quality boutiques selling all kinds of Indian handicrafts and clothing. We finished at the Colobar Market which was quite an experience. This was not a place where one would see the elite of Mumbai out for a leisurely stroll. This was hard core India at its finest and we were right in the middle of it for the first time at night with no other foreigner in site.
This was a market for the locals, with fresh fruits and vegetables stands and small shops with goats and cows passing between and along the crowd, as incense filled the air along with other not so pleasant odours. Not being accustomed to this environment, the fears can quickly set in, but if one realizes that the fear is simply a creation of the mind based on past conditioning, from horror movies and such, one can come to grips with the fact that these are simply people like us looking to make a living and to provide for their family, like the familiar Asian saying goes “Same, Same but Different”. While we were walking a car back-fired, which sounded like a gun shot, a few streets over and Steven nearly had a cow himself…. too funny! 
On our way back we ran into a young girl on the street who had a bindi tattoo made of henna on her hand, which is very common with India women. Ricky asked her where I might get one on my hand and she took me by the hand to one of the hundreds of vendors set up along the street to buy henna so that she could do the bindi on my hand herself. I asked the price, which one must or else can get hung to dry! She said 10 rupees which seemed really low and we smelled a rat but we followed along anyway. So she found a place on the side of the street for us to sit and she went right to work. When we went to pay her 50 rupees as she did an awesome job, a young women holding a baby came around and told the girl to give the money back and have us buy food for her instead. We weren’t sure why but we agreed. She took us to a specific street stall and asked us to buy her a large can of milk which she said would last her a couple of days and that the price was 200 rupees. Ahhh, here comes the rat now! Of course, we couldn’t say no so we bought the milk and went on our way. We later found out that this is one of the bizzillion street scams in India where children are forced by adults who run them to sell the milk back and give the money to them.
At one point we decided to extend our stay in Mumbai as we were enjoying it and still had things we wanted to take in there. Our hotel didn’t have room to keep us a couple more nights we transferred to their sister hotel which was in another area we could explore called Churchgate near Marine Drive. It is in this area where we found our second favorite restaurant called Mocha which offers a list of ethnic foods, drinks, coffees and teas from all around the world.
We also found and enjoyed a healthy lightly-sweetened yogurt drink in this area from a nearby street vendor, who sold the drink in a bottle sealed by foil at the top and required his customers to drink it there in order to return the refillable bottle (which were disinfected before using again… we hope!…. sometimes it’s better not to know!) We would stand there and chat with the locals also enjoying the drink and clowned around. Many of the locals walking by looked at us as if they had never seen foreigners before, something we continued to experience everywhere in India, but then we realized that we were all sporting a yogurt moustache, giving them all a very good reason to be looking at these three amigos. The good bacteria in the yogurt helped our indigestion caused by the Malarone we were taking to protect ourselves from Malaria.
We made our way to the Victoria Terminus to book our first train tickets in India to our next destination and to experience this famous landmark of Mumbai. This, as many things in India, was a little more complicated than we expected. There is a tourist quota for each train and we still havn’t figured out quite how this works?? The crowds of people entering and exiting this place were overwhelming. The staggering number of daily traffic passing through Victoria Terminus train station is an incredible 2.5 million people in ONE day! I guest when you have a population of over a billion, such things can’t be avoided.
In the afternoon we walked in the direction of all the bazaars. The streets and sidewalks were congested with people and we were pulled in every direction by vendors wanting us to buy from them, which happens everywhere in India but it was a quite intense in this area. Crossing the streets, particularly at junctions was quite the feat especially once rush hour started. We started with the Mangaldas Market which is a sea of silk fabric in little stalls where tailors are hard at work making sarees amongst mountains of fabric rolls. The bright vibrant colors and intricate patterns were like eye candy. The narrow alleys lined with stalls seemed to go on forever.
We then made our way to the Zengi Market, the gold and silver market, where we saw 24 carat gold pieces of jewellery for a quarter of the price sold at home. We finished at the Crawford Market which is a patchwork of colors as well but made of fresh fruit and vegetables.
We finished our walking tour at the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya Museum (Prince of Wales Museum for short!), the biggest and best museum in Mumbai, which we really enjoyed.
From here we went and enjoyed one last meal at Mocha’s, as we would be boarding a train the next day for a 30-hour journey to Bodhgaya.
We walked at a slow pace down the lane to really take this in and we discussed how if there really was a monastery at the end of this lane, we were in for a great week, as how could it not be in such an amazing setting. Then, suddenly, after having walked for 20 minutes or so, evidence of a Forest Monastery appeared. As we approached the entrance which was an archway over the lane with Thai words written on it and a gazebo type structure with benches and tables beyond. It was extremely quiet and at first sight there didn’t seem to be anyone around to greet us or check us in so we grabbed a seat on one of the benches and felt this sense of peace and tranquility coming over us already. After scanning the grounds around us, we spotted a large temple and meditation hall in the distance where three people dressed in white and two monks were sitting in meditation. Surprise! Surprise!
Abott Luantha invited us to settle into our kutis, to relax for the afternoon, and to get acquainted with the monastery grounds and its amenities. He then invited us to the evening chant and meditation at 6 p.m. and went on his way with his daily responsibilities. While spending time by ourselves for the afternoon in our kutis, which overlooked a small lake and mountains, we knew right away that we would very much enjoy our stay here at the monastery.
As 6 p.m. neared, we suddenly heard from our kutis the ringing of the bell, calling everyone to the evening meditation. As we looked out the windows of our kutis, we could see a dozen or more people all dressed in white meditation clothes making their way slowly towards the evening meditation hall, walking in what seemed to be in a state of great mindfulness. The scene was serene with the sound of the bell ringing in the background in this peaceful environment. It was just as we had imagined it. 
Although it was still morning, come 11 a.m., it was time for lunch. We would all sit on our mats in rows before the monks who sat on a raised platform before large Buddha statues in the large outdoor meditation hall used by the Thai and which housed a large cafeteria-style dining room. Pots full of the all-vegetarian food prepared by some of the long term female residents of the monastery was placed near Abbott Luantha on mats on the floor. The lay men would then be invited by the Abbott to go up to the platform and begin offering the various dishes, starting with the Abbott who would then pass on each dish to the other monks so they could place some food in their begging bowls. Then two or three of the lay men would move to the end of the line of monks to receive once again the dishes from them to bring them to a nearby table where the lay people would serve themselves lunch after all the monk had received theirs, while other men and women offered other dishes up to the monks.
Little we knew the most challenging part would be the critters who shared our kutis with (mostly cockroaches and thousands of ants). Turns out that we had the best kutis on the grounds as Marriah later shared with us, as she showed us that her roof wasn’t even attached to the walls of her kuti in which she slept on the floor, and she had had all kinds of visitors through the night during her month stay, including spiders, cockroaches, and even a snake! YIKES! She did have a mosquito net around her but this really challenged her fears which she ended being grateful for in the end. Respecting all living things is a must at the monastery and killing an ant or a mosquito are strictly forbidden. All you could do is try to encourage the insects to go the other way! They really reinforced that animals only hurt in self defense and they are part of nature just we human beings and that no matter how big and fierce looking they are, there is nothing to fear….ok!… still working on that one…. too many movies I guess!
All in all, our monastery experience was very meaningful experience that we look forward to doing again soon. We would certainly encourage others to take the time and be in silence for themselves. You don’t need to go to a Buddhist monastery in Thailand to be in silence either, one can do this anywhere and at anytime, you simply need to pick a quick place where you will be uninterrupted in silence with yourself and simply BE…as we are human BEings after all, not human Doings.
From Chiang Mai, we made our way to the lovely little town of Pai, deep into one of the most northern parts of Thailand. Pai is an extremely small place with a very laid back atmosphere, a slow-paced lifestyle, and a strong hippie presence. There is never any great urgency to do much of anything in Pai. One main street in the middle of town is filled with restaurants, shops, massage places, tour agencies for various outdoor adventure excursions, and other things that you may or may not need. Pai is certainly the hub of activity for tourists and locals alike, especially come night time. It’s a very common scene to see people spend hours upon hours either at one of the many restaurants or local bars just chatting away with friends and fellow travellers they have just encountered or simply reading a good book in this relaxed atmosphere. Its the kind of place one can easily whilst away days, weeks, or even months.
Upon arriving in Pai, we rented a moped to find a place to stay and to be able to explore this place that sits in a beautiful valley surrounded by mountains. If you are going to experience driving a moped in Asia for the first time, this is absolutely the place, as there is so little traffic and lots of small quiet side roads to venture down and explore. After scoping out several places to stay, we ended up staying at the Bookview Guesthouse overlooking the river and mountains, which Mr. Kem in Chiang Mai had recommended. We could have saved some time and enegy if we had just done what this wise man told us before we even left Chiang Mai…. live and learn, wha? It was a lovely place that was beautifully and meticulously maintained with trees, shrubs, and bushes and the rooms and service were great. We dealt mostly with a very young couple. The wife looked about 13 but we expect she was likely 23. She had a mouth full of braces and said “uh huh, uh huh, uh huh!” with a huge smile and nodded her head at everything we asked. So cute! 
One evening, we were walking down the main street of Pai and we stepped into this attractive little boutique, which stood out from all the rest, selling unique hand crafted jewellery. As we looked around we noticed a young Thai lady decorated in this unique native style pieces made of feathers and beads sitting near the entrance working on a piece of jewellery. We later discovered through talking with her that she was the creator and mastermind behind this fine jewellery and owned the boutique.
This was the beginning of a meaningful Friendship. As it would turn out, this was our first of several encounters and evening dinners together with Van Fa and her delightful boyfriend Yo, a very talented architect. We spoke the same language and we all felt totally inspired after the second conversation we enjoyed in her shop a couple of nights later. This talk encouraged Van Fa to listen to her internal voice and follow her dream without fear or doubt. Openning herself up like this allowed something amazing to happen.
When in Pai, one also has to go to “Cafe in Love”, this simple little cafe on the top of the hill overlooking the valley below and the mountains on the other side. They have a great little menu, but you absolutely can’t leave this place without trying the “brownies”, they simply have to be the very best brownies you’ve ever eaten, so moist and creamy they make your mouth water and leave you begging for more… a truly joyful experience to say the least! 
We also drove to a park area some 20-30 minutes south of Pai to soak up the “Natural Hot Springs”. As we walked down the trail in the wooded park area, following a shallow rock-bottom river, we came to an area with about three pools of water, one of which we soaked our bodies into. The water was quite hot, but once we were in it for a while, our bodies adjusted to the temperature and just soaked it in. The hot water soothed our bodies as this water is said to have some natural healing properties… bonus!
Driving around the valley of Pai and surrounding area on our moped was a lot of fun and allowed us to have a good appreciation of this beautiful valley from different vantage points and perspectives. Driving the moped is a very freeing experience as you break those fears and negative thoughts of the things that “might” happen. Driving responsibly and defensively at a reasonable speed, things are fine and you get to see things that you wouldn’t have otherwise.
Pai offers a number of massage places as in the rest of Asia. One evening we met this delightful women and young couple from France with whom we spent the evening. We had an intriguing philosophical conversation that carried over from the Witching Well restaurant to a nearby bar. The women recommended a tiny massage place called the Ice Hut. She told us the masseuse is a 67 year old Burmese man who gives the most precise and thorough Thai\Burmese massage she has ever received. She is a Thai massage therapist herself so we took her word for it and were we ever glad we did! He was incredible. He is one of these gifted therapists who does not only give you a standard massage following all the steps learned. He is very intuitive and actually receives information from your body and knows how much pressure to assert and how far to stretch you. Incredible and we highly recommend him.
Spirit Quest 